Panzer 38t

[H0ffmn]

Even though there hasn't been much activity here, I thought I would post this. I've been trying to convert Warlord's 38t, from a 38t Ausf E to a Ausf B without much luck in doing so.There's a lot of small small parts to try to make to the front turret armor and the front upper hull. Is there any chance that  earlier models of the Panzer 38t ,and the Panzer 35t could be put on Rubicon's wish list???
     Thanks

[Tracks]

I have not really thought about converting the kit to an Ausf B, but now that you have mentioned this, I have to look into the details. I have a really good book on the subject - Panzer Tracts #18: Panzerkampfwagen 38(t).

Was it really that much different to make such an effort to convert?

That being said, the last time we played an early war scenario (Invasion of Poland), we used our Warlor... cough... mumble... ames Panzer 38t plastic models (painted gray) as early versions of the tank. Of course, a rivet counter would probably complain, but for us it looked and played the part very well.

As for a Panzer 35t, I would hope to see a few other things released before something like a Panzer 35t. Since the 35 wasn't as widely used as the 38, I'm okay with waiting for this, but in the end would it be nice to see a good model of the Panzer 35t? Sure, but how popular would it be? A 38 is almost a must, but a 35? Let us hear your thoughts.

[EarlyWarGamer]

The nice bit about having a Panzer 35(t) is that once you have one, you have all your bases covered. There was the single basic design. The Germans captured something like 218 of them, and while they were certainly used, they did not enter production, So there is not a parade of Ausf "X" models to deal with.

Whereas the Panzer 38(t) was produced to the tune of just over 1,400 of them, across 7 models (Ausf A to Ausf G).  Not to mention several thousand being produced after the basic 38(t) stopped to be made into SP vehicles like the Marder III and Grille. And that doesn't count the thousands that were the basis for the Hetzers.

As for conversion possibilities, the "problem" is how much effort do you want to put into it.  The A through D had small changes and adaptations between them. Where we enter trouble is with the Ausf E. It had 25mm armor plates added to the front and 15mm armor plates added to the sides.  So if you are starting with an A thru D you can turn that into an E. But if you are starting with an E, removing those extra thick armor plates becomes an issue.

According to my own non-exhaustive list:

Ausf A = 100% riveted. Call this the base
Ausf B = Mostly riveted, a bit of welding.  Small changes (Notek lights, gun sight cover modified, smoke grenade launchers)
Ausf C = Mostly riveted, some welding.  Small changes (turret ring splash, German radio aerial, higher exhaust muffler)
Ausf D = Mostly riveted, some welding.  Straight front plate, large stowage box on left middle fender
Ausf E = More welding, less riveting.  Armor plates added.  Changes include new driver and gunner visors, two smaller stowage boxes
Ausf F = Very similar to Ausf E
Ausf G = Nearly 100% welded. Very similar to E/F but both storage boxes have been eliminated.

So an Ausf A can become a B, C or D with minor tweaks.  And an E can easily pass for an F or even a G with little effort.  But crossing from those early versions to the later versions is the rough patch. I'm not sure what to make of the WG model, because it sure has a ton of riveting on it, and the E/F had more welding present, and the G had almost no riveting at all. So the WG really isn't a stand in for the final G version unless you snip/sand off all those rivets!

[Tracks]

I'm not sure what to make of the WG model, because it sure has a ton of riveting on it, and the E/F had more welding present, and the G had almost no riveting at all. So the WG really isn't a stand in for the final G version unless you snip/sand off all those rivets!

So it sounds like it would stand in better for an earlier 38t than a later one, though I didn't think of removing all those rivets for a Ausf G. I have one un-built kit remaining, so I might just do that. Thanks for the info EWG.

[H0ffmn]

If you do opt to model the WG 38t as an earlier Ausf A thru Ausf C, you would need
 to shape the front upper hull at an angle, along the lines of, say a Panzer IV Ausf D or E, building up the front left upper hull by the machine gun area on the 38t Aust A thru C.,moving it forwards. You would have to rebuilt the upper hull access hatch at the radio operators position, thin the upper hull and front turret armor plates, and add a  riveted plate around the turret machine gun position. For the Ausf A and B, you would need to redo the exhaust, lowering it, and instead of leaving the exhaust to the muffler angled, you would have to make the exhaust pipe go straight into the muffler . On the Ausf A and B models, you would need to remove the splash ring around the turret as well.
 I guess you could always just use the Panzer 38t Aust E  as it is. I'm sure a lot of people do,and how many people would know,or care if you did. If that were the case, then ,why stop there? Just make a single Panzer III Ausf J,and proxy it it as a Panzer III Ausf E,or as any German tank?
 I like to model and use the correct tank model for the correct time period. I'm sure that there are others that do as well. That is why I brought up the question to Rubicon to possibly make a Panzer 38t in the future. I hope that they do.