280029 M10 / M36 Tank Destroyer

[Rubicon Models]

Assembly Instruction for the M10/M36 Tank Destroyer

[Rubicon Models]

Last Update: 160325

[Pinky]

The Historical Faces are correct, but some of the steps in the instructions are mis-labelled.

Step 4a - this is the M10/M10A1/Wolverine mid-production turret. The Achilles Ic was the 17-pdr armed version which used the mid-production turret, and the instructions do not include this version.  The Achilles IIc used the late production turret.  The Achilles was not built on the M10A1 hull - the M10A1 was reserved exclusively for US use and later rebuilt as the M36.
Step 4b - this is the M10/M10A1/Wolverine late production turret.
Step 4c - this is the M10/M10A1/Wolverine - neither of these turrets is for the Achilles Ic.  B13 is the engine deck for the diesel-engined M10 (also used for both the Achilles Ic and IIc).  B04 is for the petrol-engined M10A1.
Step 5b - the engine deck should be B13, not B04. 

The instructions for the M36 versions are correct.  However, the initial production M36s did not have a muzzle brake (they were in short supply).

C16 was actually only a feature of the diesel-engined M10 - the M10A (and M36) had twin exhausts and often an exhaust deflector (as featured on Rubicon's M4A3 kit).   

[cptjake]

Has anyone figured out a method to allow an M36 turret and an M10 turret to be used on the same hull (so you could switch out turrets and only have to buy one kit/build one hull)?

[Pinky]

It should be doable - I'll look at the kit.

[ultravanillasmurf]

It should be doable - I'll look at the kit.

It is on my Salute shopping list, M10 17 pounder of course.

Without having the kit, my thoughts are on cptkake's General Discussion version of the thread - my conclusion is build an M10 and an M4A3/M36 pair.

As you have the kit, you are more knowledgeable ^___^.

[Pinky]

I think you're right.  There is a very big difference in the size of the turret rings.

[cptjake]

Okay, so I am too cheap to buy another model, and too stubborn not to be able to use both turrets.   I used a razor saw to cut off the ring with tabs from the bottom of the M36 turret (the one with the narrower ring) and then repositioned portions of the ring with tabs, using some sheet styrene to add a bit of height.   I also had to remove parts C37 and C38 so it would rotate correctly.   Those parts are about invisible once built anyway.   







Seems to work fine.   Now I need to decide which travel lock to put on the hull (keep on the hull), but frankly, having the wrong one part of the time (when using the 'other' turret) is not going to bother me all that much.

So I'll have an M10 or M36B2 (same back deck) but one will have the wrong travel lock.

Jake

[Tracks]

I also wanted to use both turrets.
I'm just as stubborn as cptjake, but to lazy to convert the turret to fit, so I just used my Rubicon Models M4A3 Sherman hull. Depending on which turret to use, I can have either the M4A3 or M36B1.



Some notes to make:
1) A lot of combat photos and footage I have see show the tank without the muzzle break. Removing the muzzle break was very easy, and scratch building the collar ring wasn't that difficult. However, I even didn't bother with the fine threading at the end of the barrel in front of the collar ring.

2) The kit does not include crew. The crew figures are plastic and converted from various other figures from Rubicon Models plastic kits.

3) I used a brass pin so the HMG actually swivels. I didn't have to do that, but it was pretty easy, so why not? Also, it can be removed for easier storage and transportation to games. I use these models for tabletop gaming.

M10 and a M36:
I do have another M10 kit, and when I get around to putting that one together, I will do the same thing that cptjake did. Thanks for the good idea cptjake.