Sherman with logs

[CuorDiLeone]

Some minor add-on.
By the way, does anyone have a spare lower hull and tracks? 

[ripley]

Nice job . Might be an idea to replace some of the more crocked ones with something a little straighter , there are gaps a shell or magnetic grenade could get through



Notice these logs are also longer so they can wire / tie   onto the front & rear lift rings .
I have a set of extra tracks like those on your kit , plus a full sprue of the Easy 8 style wider tracks ( E sprue )
You don't really need a lower hull , make a box out of sheet plastic , add track parts , a extra trannie nose from the parts box , and mock up a rear plate  depending on  the version your M4  engine deck is , and your good to go . Even if you just leave the rear pate blank , in a game it's usually facing you not your opponent .

[CuorDiLeone]

Okydoky

[ripley]

 I've always found using real tree bits for logs doesn't really work even in 1/16 scale . An easy way to make logs is use Plastruct or Evergreen plastic rod , you just scrape a razor saw or hack saw blade  down the sides making the bark design , then cut a few gashes to represent where the branches were hacked off . Don't be afraid to go over it a few times till it looks the way you want . Then paint a base coat , then a brown or black wash , it takes a little experimentation but you can get some really nice looking logs . This also works if you want to add wood grain to various "wooden " kit parts that are lacking .

Different teeth per inch blades ( hack saw ) can give you various log/ bark designs . If you want those Sherman parts send me a PM and I'll get them in the Post

[neffer38]

I've had good results with a bbq stick and DAS clay. take the stick, cover it in PVA and then roll the DAS on. leaving it dry slightly then lightly run a wire brush or wool down in one direction to get the bark effect.

[ripley]

That works too

[Tracks]

ripley and neffer38 suggest some good ideas. I have also used the plastic rod and saw blade texture method with great results. However, I would like to share another idea. That is try using wooden rods. Yes, wood for making wood. These come in different types of wood and various diameters. I have tried this a few times and I get good results with wooden rods as well. Sometimes better, but use saw blades to scrape the wood (with the grain) to give them more texture. Keep scrapping with different saws until you get a good texture, then paint as if it were a plastic rod.

A friend told me he uses round and square wooden strips for making fences, but instead of paint, he as been getting good results with dark wood stains. I haven't tried this yet, but the pictures he sent me look good. It also looks like he also uses a little bit of dry-brushing.

[ripley]

Wood is good too . Used to find lots of scale lumber ( HO , O , 1 Gauge ) in the hobby shops when model railroading was a big deal , . It was lots of fun building bridges and retaining walls out of wooden ties and staining them  with watered down inks . Do people do that any more , or is it a lost art ? Most of my builds are all plastic save for some wooden stir sticks , borrowed from 7-11 ,  I use in my trench / fence builds .

[neffer38]

Chester train station platform 3 cafe. The coffee condiments are in an alcove, so can help your self to hand fulls of wooden sticks haha.

I bought one of the Mig books on building buildings. Was quite disappointed when every guide started off with a pre bought/built plastic kit diorama. So usefull stuff in there but not as much as I thought.

I build PVC palight for base and walls. Cork for brick work, Das clay for a range of bits and buy odd bits like the Rubicon street lights and furniture packs.  O and styrofoam.

[neffer38]

Labour of love mind