You know your getting stir crazy when -

[ripley]

Yes the molded on tools on most kits are lacking in definition IMO .  I wish they didn't mold them on   the kit and either included them as kit parts , OR - maybe put out a plastic/pewter blister pack of on vehicle tools for each major nation sort of like the 1/35 set Tamiya has for their Panzer IVs

Although with every new release we see more smaller parts molded individually , which I think is a good thing ,but Rubicon still have to find a balance between the modeler and 28mm gamer who both buy these kits . When I can I tend to remove and replace tools on my kits , although depending on placement , ie on a non skid fender , removing it messes up the fender detail . I've just removed all the tools off my T-26 as they were on flat fenders and I do have some pieces in the parts box from other scale  kits including some model rail road bits that should look the part .



I thought the Tiger kit was excellent , it gave you enough variety of parts ( early , mid , late ) that a modeler with a few research books /pictures and a spare parts bin could really have a lot of fun . True you couldn't go crazy and move the tools / tow cables easily or build a very early version with no turret stowage box and two pistol ports , but just a few add on bits could really make you kit stand out . I added cleaning ports to the fiefel filters and a tool box to the rear


On nose I added a step and grab handle as well as the long handled shovel seen on early Tigers ( inspired by Tiger 131 at Bovington ) , very easy to do and adds a lot to the kit


The Tiger I had about 7 different variations in its production run as to tool and tow cable placement , IRC the 1st version had the tow cable with the eye piece on the engine deck as opposed to up by the driver as in the kit , the only company I know who makes most of these changes in their kits is Dragon , and they have over a dozen Tiger 1 kits . No way could one kit cover all variations , but if it did it would be in a vary large box of parts and cost a lot

[neffer38]

O yeah the tigers look great. I picked up the Warlord resin one with Wittman figure a while ago then ordered the Rubicon tiger troop in the resent deals as I wanted 3 in total. The 4th I gave to my Dad but I couldn't make up my mind to either give him the Plastic Rubicon tiger or the Warlord resin. After sizing them up the Warlord resin in the same width but around 0.8 cm shorter in length. So I was going to give Dad the resin....then notice the resin had Zimmerit, so kept it based on that it would look subtly different from the other 2.

It not even the problem of they lack definition. I'd just rather have the option, its a big reason why I just stopped buying warlord plastics kits and buy only Rubicon plastics unless I have to (IS-2 is an example). I have the Rubicon German stowage set and after building my 1st Rubicon Stug and seeing the option for the stowage rack and there was no tow cable on the model it gave me the perfect excuse to buy more Stugs and make some cables from scratch and using the Heads from the stowage set.

Yes they does have to be a balance.

O yes I see the nice little step on the nose, Nice straight edge, what did you make that with?

[ripley]

Both Warlord and Rubicon kits have they're own pros and cons to varying degrees . I 've got more Warlord tanks because they hit the market before Rubicon and were easier to get at the local hobby shop . Plus IMO the Warlord plastic is much easier to work when kit bashing .  Lately its about a 50-50 split on new kits being bought . But to each there own . I've used small 1/35 scale cable eyes from the parts box , also carefully shaved the cable eyes of the Warlord T-34 , removed the molded on cable and using model ship rigging string made tow cables . Also besides the Rubicon stowage kit cable ends , I've picked up some resin ones in 48 scale (Ref :50535 ) from Gaso-Line  out of France .
While the rack in the Stug is handy for any Pzr III hulled vehicle  , if you pick up various sizes of Plastruct or Evergreen styrene you can make your own rack to fix any vehicle you wish .
The step was either a piece  that size found in the parts box ( either a 1/35 handle or a HO scale grab rail ) or  I cut a thin piece of a plastic H beam or C channel to suit . . The shovel is the actual star of the show , its made from 7 pieces

[ripley]

Made a spare wheel for my T-26 out of a HO scale truck wheel hub and some round pieces of plastic made using a hole punch , a mm or 2 oversize but looking at it from above it looks the part . Also found a HO scale screw jack and various scale  tools in the parts box .The spare track links were made from a couple of pieces of track from PSC 20mm scale tanks , outer edges are Panzer IV track , the row of center teeth are from the T-70 kit , again not quite exact but will look the part

[ultravanillasmurf]

Excellent work.

[ripley]

Thank you . Funny thing is , those shovels , axe and hammer are parts from the Meng Egg tank kits . You never know what is going to come in handy …...

[ultravanillasmurf]

I have to admit to putting a tarp over the moulded on tools on my model.

[ripley]

Sometimes you just have to make do with what you got . I'm building the Italeri 38(t) at the moment and there's lots of molded on bits that are oversized or in the wrong place on the fenders for the version I want to build . I could ,  with a lot of work ( and cursing ) remove the offending plastic but it would almost be easier to make new fenders . Nah , I want my builds to fun , I'll try to cover it up with stowage and a tarp or two

[neffer38]

Looking good! Yes by bits box is filling up!

I've never been impressed with italeri kits, in any of the scales I've done them in. I was very impressed with the warlord Marder 3 kit which I believed was italeri and was discussing my amazement in the difference, then some one pointed out a few of the warlord kits are some by PSC? Not to sure how true that was as I couldn't see any brands etc on the box for either, but it made the most sense.



did this one quite a while ago

[ultravanillasmurf]

The Marder (and a number of other Warlord models) are so similar to the smaller PSC models - right down to the instructions being interchangeable, that it is difficult to believe the design work is not by the same company. They are not always plain upscales.

Of course the entertainment value of the Marder is the box and the sprues disagree as to the vehicle type:

http://ultravanillasmurf.blogspot.com/2018/02/the-smoking-gun-warlord-sdkfz-139.html

[ripley]

Your probably right about the Marder III and 38(t) being PSC , it just says Warlord Games on the box , while the KV has both the Warlord & Italeri logos . I just assumed the 38 was Italeri …. Besides from the overscale details on the fenders they're very nice kits . I'm starting the Marder III this afternoon . I'm hoping they expand the range to a few other 38(t) based SPGs

[neffer38]

Talking of warlord oddities,  has any one seen the "28mm" church italieri do for them? I'll warn you now it's not 28mm. My friend bought 2 in a sale and set one up in a game we were playing. The whole game I was looking at it and feeling something was off with it.  When I got infantry up close I realized...its 1/72 scale! The front door is about the right scale for a normal front door but the side doors are tiny. Obviously church front doors are usually bigger.  I laughed and thought "the cheek"

[ripley]

I believe all the Italeri scenery stuff  in 1/72 , ( the  buildings , pill boxes and fences / walls) , has been re boxed by Warlord  for the 28mm games they carry . I guess it gives you a fairly decent amount of scenery which doesn't take up a large a foot print as scale 1/56 buildings would . Probably why they originally had 1/72 scale glider models to use in some campaigns , the scale Sarisa ones are huge on a 4 x 6 table . I say use scale buildings and use a bigger game table

[ripley]

My next build is going to be a Rubicon T-34/76 and as I have left over wheels from the 85 kit I decided that I would give my tank a variety of wheel types , dish , all steel and the perforated steel with rubber rim ( spider IRC )

When I compared the track / wheel sets , I noticed although the wheel type changed , the track tooth position  was  the same for all types . So if you cut out wheel # 2 on a left track , if fits perfectly in any left # 2 position . Don't do what I did and cut out a half dozen wheels at once,  as it takes a while to test fit and figure out where they go . Here's the end result

[neffer38]

good to know. I've got a 34/76 to do but i did save the wheels from other kits with this in mind.