UVS models: Salute 2021 11/12/2020

[ultravanillasmurf]

So painting over the spots is very time consuming, if the paint is too thick I get structures on the surface, if it is too thin it does not cover.

Phase one picture:


It needs another couple of layers before I start weathering etc.

[ultravanillasmurf]

Back to the M5A1.

I removed the moulded on "handrail" lifting rings and drilled two holes each. The holes were 1mm, but I was unable to bend the 1mm brass rod so used 0.7mm rod.

Once fitted, I applied the liquid poly to the ring and allowed it to flow down to the glacis. It appears to have filled the holes, but also one of the rings.It might need reaming out a bit.

Left side.


Right side.


In detail.

[ripley]

Looking good smurf . A easier item to use would be a paper clip , they come in a couple of sizes / diameters and are easy to bend and cut , plus you get about a 100 in a box for very little $ . Also good for hand rails on Russian tanks and tarp supports on trucks . Talk about old school model building 

[Pinky]

The Jagdpanzer 38t - I think the revised dots look much better.  I find there's been a bit of adjustment to this scale if you're used to 1/72 and 1/35.  My first camo attempt was definitely overscale.

The M5A1 - I really like the stowage; it looks very 'British'.  Are you going to fix the addition to the top edge of the glacis?

[ultravanillasmurf]

@Ripley: Thanks. I had not thought of paper clips, probably afraid of Audits ^____^.

I picked up a Bill Bedford 7mm scale handrail jig a while back. It is an etched sheet with holes to allow you to bend 0.7mm wire accurately to length. I will dig it out. I used it on the wip T34/85. I am sure there is a quarter scale equivalent.

@Pinky: the nearest I have come to painting ambush pattern was on some Ground Zero Games 25mm NSL power armour, I suspect that it why the JgPnzr 38 was so so dotty^___.^.

I might use some more microstrip to extend the glacis, I need to look at the original photographs to see if that will work.

[ultravanillasmurf]

Work continues at a glacial rate.

I have built up the glacis (I placed the glacis too low).

I used microstrip to build up the raised glacis top.

I have also added some additional stowage.


I have some basing to do, so I will probably try to smooth out the transition with some of the Milliput (not Lilliput).

[ultravanillasmurf]

And here is part of the infantry support for the Panzer III.

Perry Miniatures Africa Korp.


A slight diversion from the ongoing M5 and jagdpanzer 38(T).

[ripley]

Great work on your M5 . The stowage looks fantastic . My 2 part green stuff items still look like cr@p !    I've found the liquid GS from GW works really good on evening out joints , and sands well. And your AK trooper looks fantastic

[ultravanillasmurf]

Thanks.

When I started I found the main difficulty was holding the item without it distorting and getting fingerprints all over it. I then remembered a documentary on facial reconstruction (in the days before non steam powered computers) where the artist/anthropologist used pegs to provide depth information (and an anchor).

I would suggest"making" a practice tool, comprising a piece of 2 X 3cm wood about 10cm long (dimensions not really important just handy to hold), wrap it in cling film and drill two holes to suit either rod or paper clip.

The greenstuff should not stick to the clingfilm so you can remove it, if you like it, you can use it, if not you can try again.

I use Evergreen plastic rod.

I find that it is best to make one stowage item at a time,  a bed roll is about 4 - 5mm of greenstuff strip. New greenstuff is a lot more pliable and sticky (the first tanks used some I bought along with the GW fellowship Of The Ring game, that was hard work).

[ultravanillasmurf]

It is back, and ready for painting...

I added a spare track holder on the rear right (it should project out further, I doubt you could fit in the spare track, but if I made it too prominent it might break in use).


I covered the one on the left with a sack hanging from the lift ring.



It is currently undercoated and has had its first top coat.

So at this rate it might be finished by Christmas...

[ultravanillasmurf]

Not actually an update (I progress slowly) but a link with some walk rounds and photographs.

http://www.primeportal.net/tanks/m5a1_stuart.htm

Of course non period photographs have to be viewed as such.

[Pinky]

Once again, you really know how to sculpt soft stowage.  This looks very authentic.  How about some hessian as well?  It's a very 'British' feature (and would also mean you could hide the upper edge of the glacis)

[ultravanillasmurf]

Thanks for the comments.

I did model hessian camouflage nets on a Roco Kanone many years ago, I am not sure where it is now. The Sherman Vs may well get some modelled.

Here is a test photograph of the tank block painted.

I do not think the crease in the glacis is too noticeable. I do need to fill a gap in the turret join and the grousers need some tidying up.

I did notice on the previous link a detail picture of the driver's windscreen device.

[Ballardian]

Looking good, I'm with Pinky with regards to your sculpting of soft stowage - it's excellent!

[Pinky]

The colour looks good.  What is it?