Rubicon Models
Rubicon Models => General Discussions => Topic started by: Tracks on October 09, 2018, 01:48:09 am
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I finally got my hands on a few Rubicon Models SdKfz 222 kits! Yes, I know they were released sometime ago, but Rubicon Models kits (especially new releases) can take a while at times fro me to get. Especially if my source is closed for a month.
(https://i.postimg.cc/qz9QW96Y/Sdkfz222s.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/qz9QW96Y)
Anyway, I just got these and I have not started to assemble them yet, but soon. I notice that 222 kit is not listed in the "Official Assembly Instructions" section, so I will need to make any notes here about assembly... if needed.
I'm pretty sure others have already received their 222 kits, and most likely have already assembled and painted them. And since no one has made any mention of any issues (big or small) with these 222 kits, I'm guessing there are none to note.
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We have overlooked uploading the assembly instructions for the latest items.
Here is the link for the SdKfz 222/223:
http://forum.rubiconmodels.com/index.php?topic=769.0
Enjoy!
;)
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You got 3 ? Wow , that will keep you busy building . My local hobby shop guy is about one release behind on Rubicon kits . In fact , his supplier hasn't mentioned the T-26 or 88 gun kits to him yet . And there's still 1 old Panzer III kit sitting on the shelf .Those of us who build 1/56 kits have been talking up Rubicon's forth coming new Panzer III , so every bodies holding off getting a III till the new ones arrive .
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I'll take his Panzer III. and I'll do it for free too
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Are you UK based tracks?
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LOL James . If it's free I'll grab it 1st . Got a Berge pzr 3 I want to kit bash , and I figure if I mess up removing the extra engine cover , it will be easier to hide on a no turret vehicle . Unfortuntly I don't think we'll see it being given away for free any time soon
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Are you UK based tracks?
Sadly no. Its easier to get Rubicon Models in the UK or US.
You got 3 ? Wow , that will keep you busy building.
I built the first one (as a 222) last night, and it didn't take long at all.
I would like to pass on a few notes about assembly while they are still fresh in my mind. First, let me say that the SdKfz 222 / SdKfz 223 kit from Rubicon Models is a great kit and highly recommended for gamers and modelers alike. Keep in mind that the kit is primarily marketed for miniature gamers, this is why we have a step 3 for drilling holes for the Width Markers. I really like this idea! It is so much easier to drill holes than to fill them. Good job Rubicon Models!
As usual, Rubicon Models’ assembly instructions are really good, but that being said, they could have made a few more notes for the modeler. However, I am aware of the dangers of overwhelming the modeler with information. That being said, I would like to add a few notes of my own.
Step #1:
After removing part A03 from the sprue, be sure to carefully clear out the plastic from the guide channel for the rear fenders. If you do this, you will be rewarded with a perfect fit.
Step #6:
For the 222, parts B04, B05, and B17 are also optional parts and not just part B28. However, part B28 seems to be less optional on mid to late 222s.
Step #8a
Except for part B32, all the other parts listed in this step are optional parts. In fact, you can even include all the optional parts in step 9e as choices when assembling.
Note about Part B33 - This part can also be installed on the 222 (optional).
Note about part B14 - If being installed on the 222, this part can also be installed as shown in step 9f. With or without part B33 being installed. From photographs, this seems to be more common.
Step 8d
There is a small circle protrusion on part E11 that should be shaved off. This will make the part fit perfectly into part E15.
Step #8e
Dry fit this part first! Part C19 has a very tight fit. Some finesse and adjustment is needed to get this part to fit properly. The part should be flush, but can easily protrude up past even if a little. Some skill is needed to make this part fit correctly.
Step #11
There is no guide marks for part B15. Just place the part so that it stops on the bottom rail and just in front of the rear fender.
Once again, this 222/223 kit is another excellent plastic model kit from Rubicon Models, and my notes above are just additional information to help the modeler build this very nice kit.
Here is the link for the SdKfz 222/223:
http://forum.rubiconmodels.com/index.php?topic=769.0
If its okay with RM, maybe I should include my notes above. This might will help others when assembling this kit.
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Looking at the instructions it appears if you build this as a cute little 223 you don't need to use any of the turret sprue.
So you have turrets and base plates for converting a 250 and 251 correct?
This kits a steal!
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If you make your own plastic roof for the 250 / 251 your all set . The 222 kit supplied roof won't work . And Rubicon has a 20mm 2 turret kit available already . Some guys have used it to convert the Puma 234/2 into a 234/1
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Looking at the instructions it appears if you build this as a cute little 223 you don't need to use any of the turret sprue.
So you have turrets and base plates for converting a 250 and 251 correct?
This kits a steal!
jamesvalentine, that is correct. If you build the cute little 223, you can use the bits from sprue E to make the the SdKfz 250/9 if you have the base kit (SdKfz 250/1 Alte, code:280032).
I also have the SdKfz 250/9 and SdKfz 251/23 Expansion Set (Code:280048), and sprue E is the exact same sprue in this set. Instead of buying this Expansion Set, I would highly recommend buying the SdKfz 222/223 kit. Of course, you still might need the assembly instructions:
http://forum.rubiconmodels.com/index.php?topic=622.0
Yes, Rubicon's SdKfz 222/223 kits is a very good deal and highly recommend. Mostly because when you buy this kit, you get a cute little 223 model and the expansion kit (minus the the two figure sprues, box, and instructions) to build the neat little SdKfz 250/9 - if you have the SdKfz 250/1 Alte kit (code:280032). Or you get a nice 222 model and the other bits to convert one of the other two (of three) base kits. See expansion set instructions (linked above) for more details.
I wonder if is the reason why Rubicon Models does not list this expansion set (code:280048) on their website anymore.
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Tracks , its still there . In the UK store it's under Expansion packs , and in the US store under Germans
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Apologies for the threadomancy, but I have today finally got round to building my SdKfz 222/223. As it's for my DAK force (and I already have a Blitzkrieg 222) I decided to make the 223, with deployed radio array antennae.
However, I've encountered a problem, and wonder if anyone else has come across it. Or has any bright ideas.
In summary, once you have attached the deployed radio antenne, when you then insert the rotating turret assembly (which has to be offered up to the body of the vehicle with the MG34 facing 90 degrees from front, owing to the position of the lugs and corresponding recesses in the upper hull plate), it is then impossible to rotate the turret assembly back to face front - because the machine gun barrel cannot get past either of the two forward uprights of the deployed radio antennae...
Did I do something wrong? Am I being dim or missing something? Or is it a design flaw?
(http://leadadventureforum.com/gallery/39/577-100619173702.jpeg)
Like many people I suspect, I prefer to paint my models in as close to an intact state as possible (i.e. I didn't want to paint the rest of the vehicle, THEN add the radio antennae afterwards).
But I do need to be able to remove the turret assembly for painting as a separate unit, so that when dry, it will still rotate (which wouldn't be the case if I painted it in situ...).
In which case this seems a fiendish conundrum!
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We found out this problem when we were designing the kit. We then proceeded to re-check all the dimensions and they are correct.
The antennae DID block the MG when rotated on the REAL vehicle as well. In real life, the gunner would lift the MG up at an angle to avoid the antennae pole. As for the model, you will need to "gently" tilt the MG upward (as it is quite flexible) to get past the pole. An inconvenient step that can't be avoided.
Sorry for not bringing this up in the assembly instruction as we had forgotten about this until the kit was released.
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Hmm. Okay, thank you for the info. I shall try to bend the barrel and hope it doesn’t snap. I guess I can touch up the paintwork afterwards. Had I fitted the open anti grenade mesh hatches, I could have removed the MG34, painted it separately and then added to the otherwise finished model. Unfortunately, I chose the closed hatches - so the MG and its mounting are sealed in, and so bending the barrel will be the only option in order to fit the complete turret assembly to the vehicle once everything is painted.
Maybe an errata on the next print run of the assembly instructions? :)
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Apologies for the threadomancy,
No worries because its informative and on topic.
In summary, once you have attached the deployed radio antenne, when you then insert the rotating turret assembly (which has to be offered up to the body of the vehicle with the MG34 facing 90 degrees from front, owing to the position of the lugs and corresponding recesses in the upper hull plate), it is then impossible to rotate the turret assembly back to face front - because the machine gun barrel cannot get past either of the two forward uprights of the deployed radio antennae...
We found out this problem when we were designing the kit. We then proceeded to re-check all the dimensions and they are correct.
The antennae DID block the MG when rotated on the REAL vehicle as well. In real life, the gunner would lift the MG up at an angle to avoid the antennae pole. As for the model, you will need to "gently" tilt the MG upward (as it is quite flexible) to get past the pole. An inconvenient step that can't be avoided.
I have not assembled an antenna bearing SdKfz 223... yet... but this is very important information for anyone planning to do so. When assembling the 223 with the antenna deployed, its somewhat important to know that the MG needs to be glued in last.
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I would clip off the turret tabs and just sit it into the hole knowing it could easily pop out, BEFORE I would bend that barrel.
OR ... I would slice the radio pole so that corner can be lifted and have the barrel pass through the gap and face front. easy enough to disguise the cut with greenstuff and paint.
Last option for me would be to bend the barrel! Just sayin' those are two other options.
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Thanks EWG.
I had considered the first option, but not the second. But actually it might be a better solution. The MG34 barrel does not seem that bendy to me I must admit. It overshoots the antennae frame upright by a good 3-4mm. That’s going to require rather a lot of bend!
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I pulled out one of my Rubicon Models SdKfz 222 kits as well as a spare 223 turret to have a hands on look. The bad news is that there is no easy fix other than if you have a spare MG. You can simply snip off the existing MG and prepare the area to take a new barrel after everything is painted.
Using Magnets:
EWG makes a good point about removing the tabs. However, to keep the turret from falling off I would use a magnet. This will require some work after you remove the turret tabs. Glue a magnet at the bottom of the turret (center). Then put a support structure or something inside the hull to hold a piece of metal. The important thing is to carefully make sure the gap between the metal and magnet is either perfect, or just a hair gap between.
Another idea is to glue the metal at the bottom of the hull and glue a plastic rod with a magnet at the end to the bottom of the turret.
I do not recommend using two magnets. With neodymium magnets, one magnet and a piece of good metal is more than what you'll need. Also you do not have to worry about getting the polarity wrong.
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Thanks Tracks.
I think the spare MG34 barrel might be the simplest solution. I have plenty of them on the frame on my Perry DAK boxes, so if the barrel goes when bending, I’ll just have to replace.
The magnet solution sounds a bit more technical and fiddly than I really have the appetite to undertake :)
But thanks again for the creative ideas.
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When you get around to building the 20mm turret version note that the rear vision port on the turret has the hinges on the bottom , all pictures I've found show them at the top . Its an easy fix with a sharp blade and a couple of plastic bits before you build the kit , a real PIA if you try it when built
(https://i.postimg.cc/S2Tr8gyT/IMG-20190620-215749858.jpg)[/url
Turret from 250/9 kit but identical to 222 kit
[url=https://postimg.cc/8jWRPprn](https://i.postimg.cc/8jWRPprn/IMG-20190620-215815890.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/S2Tr8gyT)