Author Topic: UVS models  (Read 14225 times)

Pinky

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Re: UVS models
« Reply #30 on: March 13, 2016, 11:46:54 AM »
I can never get my Green Stuff to do what I want , what's your secret ?

Me neither!

That said, I think the front end of the rolled tarp on the right side is defying gravity a bit.  You could also hang a few Tamiya British knapsacks off the side rails.

ultravanillasmurf

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Re: UVS models
« Reply #31 on: March 13, 2016, 04:24:05 PM »
That said, I think the front end of the rolled tarp on the right side is defying gravity a bit.  You could also hang a few Tamiya British knapsacks off the side rails.
I have been concerned with the left side, I had not noticed that.
It is also true of the back of the tarp.

I will claim there are tent poles wrapped up in it ^___^.

Somewhere I have some 4.X mm square section evergreen strip which I used for backpacks on one of the Shermans, they will be added to the side rails as you suggest.


ultravanillasmurf

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Re: UVS models
« Reply #32 on: March 13, 2016, 06:07:33 PM »
I can never get my Green Stuff to do what I want , what's your secret ?
Me neither!
Thanks for the kind words.

I do not always get it to work, just look at the left side of the Crusader. I have just bought my third GW pack of greenstuff, I bought the first when the Fellowship of the Ring game came out, so I have not used it much.

Here are some rambling thoughts.

(Note, I will use the word sculpting, but in no way am I claiming to be able to sculpt anywhere on the same planet as Kev White or the Perry twins - it is just more efficient than saying poking clumsily with the pointy end of a scalpel).

I try and limit what I am sculpting, so, if I want some British back packs, I make an armature out of Evergreen square section strip and add a flap and straps from micro strip. Once that is dry I use green stuff to make it look less like a box. One of my Bolt Action Shermans has a couple of those backpacks. The Crusader has a tarp wrapped box on the left rear mudguard, I used an HO scale box as an armature pinned to the mudguard.

The other thing is that though greenstuff is sticky, it does not stick enough on flat surfaces. I drill the location and glue plastic rod to the surface to provide a firm anchorage point and an indication of the intended height (too much facial reconstruction on television ^___^). You can see examples on the Crusader.

Tools wise, most of the work is done with my trusty Swann Morton scalpel with a 10A blade and a Hasslefree blister pack containing water in the back (also used as a pallette). I do have an old pipe scraper tool, not mine I hasten to add which gets used for sculpting (proper tools are available).

I have previously used a piece of PTFE sheet taped to plastic card as a non stick surface, but after 20 years it is not very non stick. I have just started using an off cut of what I am told is PTFE which made rolling the greenstuff a lot easier.

The key things are:
Real examples- look at pictures of the real thing and models that look right. The Osprey modelling book on the US 76mm Sherman has some nice examples.
Placement - where is the item going, how would it flow. Is it clear of intakes and exhausts, hatches and viewing ports?
Gravity- yup slightly forgot that, fabric items will sag, think how gravity will affect the shape.
Fixings - related to gravity above. How is the item fixed so it does not fall off and how does that affect the shape.
Story - it is there for a reason, what is that reason: covering or holding something down or stopping something moving.
Time - greenstuff remains soft but not workable for a period of time, work on items so that you will not be putting finger prints on your previous work.

Simple blanket/tarpaulin roll on a horizontal surface:

Drill the surface in two or more places and glue in suitable lengths of plastic rod. Ensure they do not interfere on the underside.

Cut and mix your greenstuff. Roll it into a suitable diameter sausage of the required length (actually make it slightly longer and cut off square). PTFE material might make it easier, or use polythene. Remember some people are allergic to the epoxy, so gloves might be required.

Square up the ends.

Place the greenstuff on the surface and flatten it out, making sure the ends remain squarish.

With the end of the scalpel work your way round the end of the roll teasing the edge of the end out in a full squashed circle, this is the outer part of the roll. Then work your way in in a spiral. Use plenty of water.

Next, having noted where you are going to tie the roll to the surface, with the wet scalpel make two parallel marks for the strap. If the strap is attached beyond the roll, extend the strap.

Carefully, being careful to not 'tear' the surface, with the scalpel depress the surface at a shallow angle from the strap to give some depth to the strap. Add some creases.

Repeat for the other straps.

Now some rolls will have an exposed end, you need to make a smooth line along the roll, missing the straps, gently depressing the lower material while lifting the upper to make a nice edge. When you reach the end, tuck the lower part underneath the upper.
« Last Edit: March 13, 2016, 06:09:33 PM by ultravanillasmurf »

ultravanillasmurf

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Re: UVS models
« Reply #33 on: March 14, 2016, 12:11:16 AM »
Nope, not happy with the left hand tarp:


So I have removed it.


ripley

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Re: UVS models
« Reply #34 on: March 14, 2016, 12:44:07 AM »
Thanks for sharing you method , I'll have to pick up some new GS and give it a try, the stuff I have is dead .I didn't close the container tight and it dried out   ::)  I thought that tarp looked pretty good actually .There are lots of pictures of badly loaded / tied on equipment , some blocking the turret or even dragging on the ground . Things do shift on a moving vehicle , I guess it depends if the photos are taken during a routine  route march from A to B,  where you have time to put things right  before you leave  or a bug out under fire where stuff is just thrown on the vehicle as you get out of Dodge !

Pinky

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Re: UVS models
« Reply #35 on: March 14, 2016, 01:30:51 AM »
Nope, not happy with the left hand tarp:

So I have removed it.

I do that kind of thing all the time.  Which is why everything takes so long to finish.  That, and I keep starting new kits...

ultravanillasmurf

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Re: UVS models
« Reply #36 on: March 14, 2016, 02:55:43 AM »
Thanks.

@Ripley, I kept mine in a Coppleston castings blister pack (and the two sheets of plastic). It did cease to be adhesive after a number of years.

A good way to practice is to put a strip of sticky tape on a piece of wood (you know the one you use to hold figures when spray painting) and then drill through it with a pin vice. Put some rod of required diameter in the hole and use that to hold your test piece. Once set, it can be removed. If you like the piece, you can just drill a hole in your model, shorten the plastic rod and glue it on.

Yes stowage can shift, but it needs to have a story and I did not feel it was right. Its replacement is not perfect (it is held by attachments at the ends only, there should be slightly more sag).

Now I am waiting for it to set, I have added three armatures for packs.

ultravanillasmurf

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Re: UVS models
« Reply #37 on: March 14, 2016, 03:02:46 AM »
Nope, not happy with the left hand tarp:

So I have removed it.

I do that kind of thing all the time.  Which is why everything takes so long to finish.  That, and I keep starting new kits...

Me too...

This (http://thedicebaglady.net/bad-squiddo-games-tank-commanders/) has inspired me to finally dig out the Rubicon T34/75.

ripley

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Re: UVS models
« Reply #38 on: March 14, 2016, 04:20:22 AM »
LOL  . I ordered mine yesterday . I've got 9 T-34s , so one needs a female crew . I've got pictures in one of my books , somewhere , of a female Russian tank ace and her T-34 named Faithful Wife , or something like that . Will have to practice my freehand painting to put the name on the side of the turret  :)

chrismanu87

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Re: UVS models
« Reply #39 on: March 14, 2016, 09:54:05 PM »
LOL  . I ordered mine yesterday . I've got 9 T-34s , so one needs a female crew . I've got pictures in one of my books , somewhere , of a female Russian tank ace and her T-34 named Faithful Wife , or something like that . Will have to practice my freehand painting to put the name on the side of the turret  :)
I know this story....a model will be great!

ultravanillasmurf

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Re: UVS models
« Reply #40 on: March 19, 2016, 07:33:59 PM »
For various reasons I have not been updating the work in progress Crusader.

So I replaced the tarp and added armatures for the packs out of 4.7mm square section tube.

The armatures are pinned to the sand shields. They are then filled with greenstuff and detailed with micro strip.


So it was then undercoated, first with Citadel Chaos Black then Humbrol Desert Yellow. It does look rather dark, I do wonder if Desert Tan would be better.

What do you think?
« Last Edit: March 19, 2016, 07:41:37 PM by ultravanillasmurf »

ripley

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Re: UVS models
« Reply #41 on: March 19, 2016, 10:39:54 PM »
Looking really good . I'll have to try your method of making packs . Have you thought of casting a few in resin to keep a supply of extras for other builds ? Always seems it takes quite a while to scratch a detail part or 10 , but casting parts , once you get the initial mold made , takes 5 minutes . The color does look a little dark . Maybe try dry brushing a lighter color over top ? I usually try  various shades of dry brush on the under side of my tanks , which I paint , but no one ever sees . Could also try a wash , I just got a Vallejo Desert Dust wash ( # 76.522 ) , which I'm going to try on my Tunisian Tiger and Panzer III N .

Pinky

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Re: UVS models
« Reply #42 on: March 20, 2016, 01:19:17 AM »
The stowage really captures the look of an Alamein-era Crusader. 

I wouldn't worry about the base colour being too dark.  Once you've shaded it and highlighted it, it'll be fine.   

ultravanillasmurf

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Re: UVS models
« Reply #43 on: March 20, 2016, 05:40:06 PM »
Thanks for the thoughts.

@Ripley - I hod not thought of casting the packs, that is a good idea, it would also make them more consistent. My local Hobbyz R Uz franchise sells casting kits, I will have a look.

I will have a look for the Vallejo dust wash.

Normally the underside of my vehicles remains Chaos Black, though having read a BA painting guide, the underside of the Crusader is Mournfang Brown (an attempt a spray shading of the wheels). The underside of an Empress T90 is patch painted where I was trying to match PSC Russian Tank Green spray with any acrylic paint.

This morning I block painted everything that is not hull colour and once that is dry I will give it a serious dry brushing with desert tan. I will then give it a light wash before detail painting, decals, shading,highlighting and weathering.


ultravanillasmurf

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Re: UVS models
« Reply #44 on: March 27, 2016, 08:39:31 PM »
So, this is nearly finished (it was only after taking the pictures I noticed I had forgotten to paint the lens of the lamp on the turret, and I need to install the brush guard for the right hand headlight).




I think the ID flashes are a bit far forward.



And almost none of the contemporary photographs have unit markers, perhaps due to over zealous censors?


« Last Edit: March 27, 2016, 08:45:05 PM by ultravanillasmurf »