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91

General Discussions / Re: Israeli M-1 Super Sherman

« Last post by Tracks on July 30, 2022, 09:17:25 am »

The Israel Shermans is an interesting story. I would at least start with the follow:

https://tanks-encyclopedia.com/coldwar/israel/m50-51_super-sherman.php

https://www.tanks-encyclopedia.com/coldwar/Israel/ISherman.php

If you can, I also recommend picking up the book "IDF Shermans M-50 and M-51" by Tom Gannon. This book will be very useful for your project. More information about the book in the link below:

https://www.scalemates.com/books/idf-shermans-m-50-and-m-51-model-foto-focus-tom-gannon--125787

It would be nice once you start on your M50/M51 Super Sherman kit-bash project to share with others the progress of your model, and of course the finished result. Actually, this seems like a fun project and look the hear from you how it turns out.

Edit:
Sorry, I just realized that I misunderstood the title. I was thinking of the more famous M50 and M51 (mostly because I just watched The Chieftain videos on it), and thought that maybe you might have meant M51 and not M1, but there is an Israeli M1 Super Sherman, which is a different tank. In the 1950s, Israel purchased some Sherman tanks. These were armed with the 76.2mm M1 gun, so they were designated M1 Super Sherman to distinguish them from earlier variants equipped with 75mm guns. Many of these featured rounded cast hulls, air-cooled radial gasoline engines, and Vertical Volute Spring Suspension (VVSS). These tanks first saw action in the Suez Crisis in 1956.

In this case, I would just use the model as is without any kit-bashing. In fact, it seems like no or very little kit-bashing is needed. For those subtle differences, very few if any will ever notice them. Also, depending on how you paint your model, you can still use the model as a WW2 tank. 

92

General Discussions / Re: Israeli M-1 Super Sherman

« Last post by ripley on July 30, 2022, 07:34:15 am »

 IDF tanks are not my thing but most  pictures I've seen show a late version M4A1 cast hull . so I would start there . Check out TOADMAN Tank Pictures walkarounds on the web . IRC you need the late Sherman E8 wheels and you have to replace / kit bash the engine deck hatches as they re engined them with a diesel IRC instead of the stock 9 cylinder aero engine .
EDIT there are also M4 versions with the older wheel styles , so I guess you could go that way as well , but they all did start out with the aero engine so M4 /M4A1 hulls

93

General Discussions / Israeli M-1 Super Sherman

« Last post by Stuart on July 30, 2022, 12:58:17 am »

I am giving some thought to building an M-1 Super Sherman by kitbashing a Rubicon Sherman.

Just thinking that a preliminary starting place would be with the M4A2 then using an M4A3 turret. Anyone with a better starting place or some advice as how to proceed I would welcome your thoughts. I do know that there will be some scratch building involved, but just looking at photos that would seem to be minimal

94

General Discussions / Re: Do you cut or not cut?

« Last post by Tracks on July 21, 2022, 08:36:34 pm »

Actually, I haven't really thought about removing and replacing the tools. Mostly because I don't have the extra tools like shovels and picks you would need to replace them, but I also think the molded on tools look more than good enough not to remove. I use my Rubicon Models for tabletop miniature gaming. For example, here is a pic of a couple of my Shermans.



That being said, if I were to build one for a model contest or something, I would be tempted to replace the tools if I could find the proper spare tools to replace them with.

95

General Discussions / Re: Do you cut or not cut?

« Last post by H0ffmn on July 18, 2022, 12:36:26 am »

 I always cut the supporting connection bits between the roadwheels. I don't  care for the way they look, although on some kits they are hard to see. I don't like removing the molded on vehicle tools. I don't  like taking the chance of  removing too much surrounding details, like the tread pattern on the mudguards of the Panzer 3 or Panzer 4 when doing this.

96

General Discussions / Re: Do you cut or not cut?

« Last post by ripley on July 17, 2022, 07:43:55 pm »

 On the T-34 I cut as I usually end up doing a wheel swap or two .

 I also cut the supports on my Tiger and both Panthers although with the interweaved wheel design they are not visible . But I know they are there and it bugs me  What does that say about me ?
 Question , do you remove / replace the molded on vehicle tools that look rather flat ? I try to depending on the bits in my parts bin , although most times adding stowage covers up the replacement parts . 

97

General Discussions / Do you cut or not cut?

« Last post by Tracks on July 17, 2022, 11:37:42 am »

To cut or not to cut, that is the question.

Just recently I was assembling a Rubicon Models kit. I was assembling yet another T-34 kit and I had the two following thoughts while working on it:

1) How simple and nice these T-34 kits really are. Both their T-34/76 and T34/85 kits are some of their earlier kts, and also are (in some ways) simpler to assemble with fewer parts, but yet they still have very good details and are just as nice as their newer kits.

2) How many other people actually cut the supporting connection bits between the wheels, and how many just leave it one when assembling?

What am I talking about? Have a look at parts C01 and C02 (or B15 and B16) of the T-34/76 kit. An even better example is to take a look at parts A08 and A09 from their Panzer IV Ausf F/F2/G/H kit because the support connections are much smaller.

However, I’m somewhat surprised Rubicon Models didn’t design it so that the support connections on the Panzer IV were on the inside when assembled instead on the outside where they are more noticeable. That being said, I think they learned from this, because on their Panzer III kits, they made it so that the support connections would be on the inside and therefore less noticeable.

Anyway, Rubicon Models’ idea of using these supporting connections between the wheels is actually a really good idea, and something I hope they continue to use. This gives a person a choice of an easy assembly, or if you do not want them because of looks or whatever, they are easily removed. Yes, it takes a bit of cutting and sanding/filing, but if they were individual wheel parts, you would be doing that anyway, so it’s not an issue.

I really like this feature, but now that I have said that, I always end up removing them because I like the cleaner look. Now, I have not assembled my Panzer III Ausf E… yet. Because these smaller supporting connection bits are on the inside (not the outside like on the Panzer IV kits), I might not remove them for ease of assembly. Only time will tell. I might end up removing them anyway because assembling these kits is part of the enjoyment.

Do you cut or not cut these off when you assemble your kits?

98

Work In Progress / Re: T17E1 Staghound - Mk II added 210417

« Last post by ripley on July 12, 2022, 01:03:23 am »

It's been over a year , any idea when we'll see the Stag in the shops ?

99

Showcase & Gallery / Re: Various WIP

« Last post by ripley on June 20, 2022, 09:54:02 am »

The 4 standing and 2 seated are glued on . The 3 kneeling figures are removable .  I figured I had to do something with the extra JP hull from the Rubicon kit

100

Showcase & Gallery / Re: Various WIP

« Last post by Tracks on June 20, 2022, 09:12:07 am »

Looking very good.
Are they permanently attached?